Around the Snowies

A ten-day door-to-door tour from Canberra, mainly on dirt, riding around and over the mountains by Sue Webber.

Maps fascinate me. They're a collection of lines that mark roads and tracks, rivers and contours but how long would it take to describe the contents of a map in words? How could you include each and every relationship, how could you build a mental picture in that mass of written detail? In a map it's all there, if not at a glance then at least after some careful study. Planning a tour on maps is engrossing, especially for this tour. It was a puzzle to find a way to complete the circuit on as many back roads and tracks as possible. Some of the country I knew from experience, the rest I discovered by maps, but the reality could only be experienced by bike.

Day One Canberra to Yass via Gundaroo, 95km.

Of course there are shorter ways to Yass from Canberra but I've never found cycling on highways much fun and this way allows a stop at the great Cork Street cafe at Gundaroo. We sneaked out of Canberra through Mitchell and the new suburb of Gunghalin, taking the dirt Gundaroo road over the NSW border and through grazing country.

Refuelling at the Cork Street café was a delight and a series of cafes like this spaced about 40km apart would provide an excellent route for a cycling tour. Unfortunately, no other cafes of this calibre occur on this tour. From a turn off 4km north of Gundaroo, Yass River Road winds through the country crossing the river without actually seeming to follow it. The hills became harder as we approached Yass, or did our legs just run out of fuel? Overnight in the Yass caravan park.

Day Two Yass to Wee Jasper, 60km

After yesterday's efforts we felt we had left Canberra far behind. However, a climb up a ridge to the south-east of Yass brought the capital's Black Mountain tower back in view. A winding descent to the Murrumbidgee River restored our spirits and we crossed the river at the Taemas Bridge. The rounded contours of the country soon developed into hills again and the dirt road morphed into bitumen for an exciting descent to Wee Jasper, where cold drinks and ice-creams awaited at the shop. Looking like a cyclist's nightmare, four pig dogs in leather armour strained on their leashes in the back of a ute. Only the tasty body of a black pig in the back prevented them from leaping down to tackle our bicycles. Fortunately they weren't headed for the peaceful campground on the Goodradigbee River just out of town but we were.

Day Three Wee Jasper to Tumut, 65km.

A gradual climb out of Wee Jasper through woods delivered us onto a dirt road leading across grasslands. We climbed to the edge of a State Forest of pines and followed the road that's little more than a good forestry track. On the other side of the forest we joined a sealed road that continued through more pine forests until an enjoyable descent led us along a delightful valley and into Tumut.

Overnight in the Tumut caravan park where the hungry possums roam.

Day Four Tumut to Hydes Mill, 53km.

We headed out of town on the Snowy Mountains highway. After 6km we turned off and up East Gilmore Road, a sealed road down a lovely valley. This route had given me much thought during the planning of the tour, some maps connected it up with Snubba Road, others left a blank at the end. I was only cycling with confidence because I had phoned the Tumut tourism office and spoken to a local mountain bike rider who assured me that the road did connect, although there was a huge climb. The forestry map shows a 300m difference between the end of East Gilmore Road and the ridge where Snubba Road runs, although it marks no connection.

At the head of the valley there we found a turn off through a gate and over a cattle grid, signed Blowering Dam. That was the sign I was looking for. The gradual climb turned to steep sections and all but one of us pushed our laden touring bikes up to the high ridge where Snubba Road runs.

From the top we looked down on the reservoir and over to Kosciuszko National Park on the far side. The Snubba Road continues to climb along the ridge and we paused at the Hume and Hovell lookout, where a plaque says the explorers stopped on 5 November 1824.

Climbing up Snubba road - 700, 800, 900, 1000 metres - we were looking for Bullongra Road. This is where my map reading let me down and we passed the turning that was signed Browns Road. Instead, we continued and turned down Old Telegraph Road to the Ash Walk picnic area, again not on the map, which would have been a great camping spot. We found Bago Forest Way and began down this damp clay track as the rain started. A dam marked on the forestry map looked like a promising spot and we found a place to camp under some pine trees near the site of Hyde’s Mill.

During the night the howling dingoes sounded like alien invaders to my tired brain.

Day Five Hydes Mill to Peppermint Hill, 30km

Depending on your food supplies you may need to drop down to Tumbarumba, a morning’s ride, to stock up at this stage. Fortunately we had mailed food parcels ahead to a friend on a property nearby and were able to spend the afternoon cleaning ourselves up and tinkering with the bikes.

From Hydes Mill we followed Bullongra Road south to the junction with Ash Creek Road and took this road to New Maragle Road and then on to Powerline Road. Ash Creek Road is a dry-weather-only road and may be slippery clay or deep mud after rain. The Powerline Road crosses the Eliot Way and there are plenty of good camping spots in the forest on the other side.

Day Six Peppermint Hill to Bradley's Hut, 35km

We followed Powerline Road south to Lees Road turn off. Lees Road leads up the big climb to Wangara Gap where we found lots of unmarked tracks and eventually decided on the right-hand track that led downhill and turned out to be Black Jack Road that leads into Kosciuszko National Park. From here we climbed to nearly 1600m and a took quick detour up to Mount Black Jack. The Manjar Road continued to Eliot Way and Bradley’s Hut just a few hundred metres south. We camped outside the hut but built a fire in the fireplace for evening warmth. Overnight frost made us wish we had saved some wood for another fire in the morning.

Day Seven Bradley's Hut to Braemar Bay, 62km

We returned north along Eliot Way to the Happy Jack’s turnoff – signed as a National Park Management Road. First there was a climb then a rough descent to 1200m and Happy Jacks Pondage – part of the Snowy Mountains Scheme – then across a bridge and a long climb back up to 1500m. We rode across Happy Jack’s Plain and then along the Tolbar Road with great views down to Lake Eucumbene. The high point of 1700m meant that down was the only way left to go for the next 10km. Campground with great views of the lake at Braemar Bay and a small shop for supplies.

Day Eight Braemar Bay to Adaminaby, 62km

We headed south for 7km to Wanui Road. It's easy to miss this dirt road so look out for the "Wanui" sign by the cattle yards. This great 14km dirt road through properties comes out on Buckenderra Road and then it's sealed roads all the way to Adaminaby, following Middling Bank Road and the Snowy Mountains Highway. Shops, cafes and an immaculate campground at Adaminaby.

Day Nine Adaminaby to Franks Hut, 44km

We returned along the Snowy Mountains Highway to Bolaro Road and headed north following the road to Shannons Flat. The Boboyan Road leads into Namagdi National Park and the ACT. Across the border we stopped at Brayshaw's Hut for lunch out of the rain. Turned left down Old Boboyan Road and up along the Naas Valley and over Naas Creek. Frank's Hut is signposted to the left off the track. We camped under the pine trees outside the hut and ate by candlelight inside.

Day Ten Frank's Hut to Canberra (Downer), 68km

Headed north along Old Boboyan Road to rejoin Boboyan Road and on to Naas Road to Tharwa for a break by the Murumbidgee River. From Tharwa the road leads north into the southern suburbs of Canberra and careful reading of the Canberra Cycleways map will take you all the way into the city on shared paths.

Tour Guide
Maps

For an overview see the NRMA's Canberra and South East NSW. The CMA Tourist Map The Snowy Mountains also gives good general coverage but does not include Yass, however it does show Snubba and East Gilmore Road connecting. For Bago State Forest contact the State Forestry Office and ask for the Northern and Southern section Bago forest maps. These large ink-jet printed maps are very useful for navigating the State Forest and include contour lines but they are not complete; they do not show the road up from East Gilmore Road to Snubba Road. For more topographic information about Bago Forest to Mt Black Jack see Yarrangobilly 1:100,000. Kosciusko 1:100,000 gives a short section from Bradleys Hut to Happy Jacks Plain. Berridale 1:100,000 covers the area around Lake Eucumbene.

Time to Go

The weather in the mountains can change at any time and whenever you decide to do this tour you should be prepared for cold, wet weather. During winter some of the trails may be covered with snow. Late spring to early autumn would be the best time to go.

Supplies

There are shops in Canberra, Yass, Wee Jasper, Tumut, Braemar Bay and Adaminaby. If you do not want to ride into Tumbarumba you will need to carry four days’ food plus emergency supplies from Tumut.

Safety

This is a remote area tour and you will need to be self-sufficient, confident in your ability to navigate and to treat minor injuries. Travelling in a small group is best, if you are traveling alone, let someone know your route and touch base by phone when you are able.

Copyright Sue Webber 2007

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